Journal · Scalp health (oily, itchy, dandruff, climate) · by Dr. Steven Goh

Scalp Health Guide: Oily, Itchy, Flaky & Sensitive

A healthy scalp routine means washing often enough for your scalp type, rinsing thoroughly, being gentle, and adjusting for climate. Oily scalps usually need more frequent washing; dry or sensitive scalps need milder products and less heat. Persistent itching, redness, scaling or soreness should be checked by a doctor or pharmacist.

Why scalp health matters for hair

It is easy to think only about the hair you can see. But hair grows from the scalp, and the scalp is skin. An irritated, inflamed or neglected scalp is uncomfortable, and greasy or flaky roots also make thin hair look thinner. Good scalp care will not reverse genetic hair loss, but it gives your hair a better environment and helps it look its best.

Know your scalp type

Oily scalp

Roots look flat or greasy within a day, and hair separates into strands that show more scalp. Oily scalps are common in hot, humid climates. The usual answer is washing more often with a gentle shampoo, rather than harsh "deep cleaning" products that can leave the scalp irritated.

Dry scalp

Tight, itchy, sometimes with small, fine, white flakes. Often worse in cold weather and centrally heated homes. Milder shampoo, cooler water and avoiding very hot styling can help.

Flaky scalp (dandruff)

Larger, often slightly greasy flakes, sometimes with itching. Dandruff is common and usually responds to medicated shampoos available from pharmacies. If it is red, sore or spreading beyond the hairline, speak to a pharmacist or doctor.

Sensitive scalp

Stings, burns or itches after new products, colour or styling. Patch-test new products, keep routines simple and avoid heavily fragranced products.

A simple scalp care routine

• Wash as often as your scalp needs. There is no single correct frequency. Oily scalps may need daily washing; dry scalps may need less.
• Massage, don't scratch. Use fingertips, not nails.
• Rinse thoroughly. Leftover shampoo and conditioner can irritate the scalp.
• Keep conditioner on the lengths. Heavy products on the roots weigh fine hair down.
• Dry the scalp. Going to bed or tying hair up with a damp scalp, especially under a cap or headscarf, can leave it uncomfortable.
• Protect from sun. A thinning parting can burn. A hat helps.

Climate changes everything

• Cool, dry, heated environments such as winters tend to make dry, tight scalps worse.
• Hot, humid climates mean more sweat and oil, so scalps can feel greasy by midday. Helmets, caps and headscarves can trap heat.
• Air-conditioned offices can dry the skin even in the tropics.

Our guide to hair and scalp care by country looks at these differences, and our article on hair serum in humid weather covers product choice for tropical heat.

Scalp health and the fuller look

Greasy or flaky roots make thinning more noticeable. A clean, calm scalp is also the starting point for any cosmetic or scalp treatment. At Folli-Doc, the first step of the process is a digital scalp analysis that looks at the condition of your scalp and existing hair before anything else is planned. If the scalp is inflamed or infected, treatment should wait until it has been dealt with. For ways to make hair look fuller straight away, see our instant fuller hair guide.

Common mistakes

• Switching shampoos every week, which makes it impossible to know what helps.
• Scrubbing hard or using rough tools on an itchy scalp.
• Using oils on an already oily scalp.
• Ignoring a scalp that is sore, weeping or has spreading red patches.
• Assuming hair shedding is caused by shampoo. Shedding usually has other causes; see our hair loss causes guide.

Summary

Treat your scalp like the skin it is: clean it as often as it needs, be gentle, rinse well and adjust for the weather. Oily, dry, flaky and sensitive scalps each need a slightly different approach. If symptoms persist, hurt or spread, get a medical opinion before trying more products.

Frequently asked questions